Food culture

Eating by the season: shun, Japan's culinary calendar

Eating by the season: shun, Japan's culinary calendar

© MichaelMaggs · CC BY-SA 3.0

What 'shun' means

Shun (旬) is the idea that every ingredient has a peak moment, and that a meal should reflect the time of year. It shapes menus from humble izakaya to formal kaiseki, and it's the most rewarding lens for eating in Japan.

Spring (Mar–May)

The season of new growth: bamboo shoots (takenoko), butterbur, mountain vegetables (sansai), cherry-blossom sweets, and sakura ebi. Sweet, tender and green.

Summer (Jun–Aug)

Cooling foods rule: chilled soba, hamo (pike conger), eel (unagi) for stamina on the hottest days, ayu sweetfish, and kakigori shaved ice.

Autumn (Sep–Nov)

The gourmet season: sanma (pacific saury), matsutake mushrooms, chestnuts, persimmons, new-crop rice (shinmai) and pumpkin. Rich and fragrant.

Winter (Dec–Feb)

Warming and luxurious: crab (kani), fugu (blowfish), yellowtail (buri), oysters, hot pots (sukiyaki, shabu-shabu) and oden.

How to use it

Ask for the shun recommendation, or book a kaiseki and let the season lead. Counter sushi and markets like Toyosu are where seasonality shines brightest.

Places we’ve confirmed

Ginza · Kaiseki · ¥¥¥¥

Ginza Kojyu

Seasonal omakase: grilled Ise lobster, ayu, eel, abalone

Chef Toru Okuda's two-Michelin-star counter, carved from a 270-year-old cypress, distills the season into impeccable Ginza kaiseki.

  • Anniversary
  • Business

Azabu · Unagi (grilled eel) · ¥¥¥¥

Nodaiwa Azabu-Iikura

Unaju — Edomae eel steamed then charcoal-grilled

A Michelin-starred eel house with over 200 years of history, where the fifth-generation master steams and charcoal-grills Edomae unagi to melt-in-the-mouth perfection.

  • Pescatarian
  • Anniversary
  • Business

Toyosu · Sushi (Edomae) · ¥¥¥

Sushi Dai

Omakase course of Edomae sushi (chef's choice)

The legendary 5 a.m. counter inside Toyosu Market where visitors queue for hours to watch a master build an omakase of the day's finest catch.

  • Pescatarian
  • Solo
  • Date

Iriya (Taito) · Matcha gelato & Japanese tea · ¥

Suzukien Asakusa

No.7 Premium Matcha Gelato — the world's richest

This 1848-founded tea house teams up with Shizuoka's Nanaya to serve matcha gelato in seven escalating intensities, climaxing in a near-black No. 7 so concentrated it tastes like eating pure tea leaves.

  • Vegetarian
  • Solo
  • Casual
Misaki Honda
  • 12y food writing
  • Inbound dining specialist
  • Sommelier

Tokyo food editor covering inbound dining — 300+ meals a year, chosen by the moment and the menu.