How to Enjoy an Izakaya: A First-Timer's Guide

What an izakaya is

An izakaya is a casual pub-restaurant built for sharing: you order small plates and drinks little by little, over a relaxed couple of hours. It's the most social, low-pressure way to eat and drink in Japan.

Getting in & the 'otoshi'

Say how many people ("futari" = two) at the door. Soon a tiny dish arrives that you didn't order — the otoshi (a small table-charge appetiser, usually ¥300–500 per person). It's normal, not a scam.

Ordering

• Order a drink first, then food gradually — you don't choose everything at once.
• Dishes are shared: get a few (yakitori, edamame, sashimi, karaage) for the table.
• "Toriaezu nama" ("a draft beer to start") is the classic opener.

Drinking customs

Wait for everyone's drink, then "kanpai!" (cheers) together before the first sip. Some places offer nomihōdai (all-you-can-drink for a set time).

Paying

Usually you pay at the register on the way out, not at the table. No tipping. Splitting the bill ("betsu-betsu") is common and fine to ask for.