Hantei Nezu

Hantei has been frying skewers inside the same wooden building since 1917 — a three-storey structure so intact that it now holds status as a Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property, making the room itself as much a draw as the food. The ground floor keeps the dark, warehouse-like timber of the original structure; climb the narrow stairs and the upper floors turn tatami-matted and pale, with windows on the top level said to catch a distant view of Tokyo Skytree on a clear evening.

Kushiage here isn't served all at once — skewers come out a few at a time, straight from the fryer, so nothing sits and cools on the plate. The rotating lineup runs from the familiar (pork tenderloin, lotus root, shrimp wrapped in shiso) to house specialties like Kyoto carrots, tofu curds, and white-fleshed fish, dipped in a tonkatsu-style brown sauce, a pinch of salt, or the house miso paste kept specifically for the vegetable skewers. The dinner course (Yoruzen) runs to twelve pieces; the lighter lunch set (Hiruzen) brings eight, finished with rice or an ochazuke bowl.

A few practical notes: book ahead, particularly for a weekend evening, through Tabelog or TableCheck — both operate in English even if the printed menu leans Japanese-first, so a translation app is worth having on hand. Despite its vintage, the restaurant isn't cash-only: major cards and QR payment apps are accepted. One caution for allergy-conscious diners — everything is fried in a shared fryer, so severe restrictions can't be accommodated. Cancel within two days of a booking to avoid a fee. Hantei is closed Mondays and sits a short walk from Nezu Station.